"This is a used vintage garment and may show signs of wear. Please refer to the individual item description and review the photos carefully."
Offered here is an original mid-1950s West German flight jacket in a silhouette that has achieved legendary status among collectors. This specific pattern is famously associated with the early years of the Beatles during their residency in Hamburg, Germany. George Harrison, in particular, was frequently photographed wearing a jacket of an almost exact cut. These jackets were a staple of the "Exi" (Existentialist) and rocker subcultures that the Beatles immersed themselves in while playing at the Indra and Kaiserkeller clubs. It is incredibly rare to see an original mid-century example on the market today. It is widely speculated that the band members purchased these jackets at specialized clothing shops near the Reeperbahn, such as the legendary shop owned by the Kemp family, which catered to sailors, pilots, and the emerging youth counterculture.
This garment features two distinct internal tags. The first reads "Ein original Bewag erzeugnis" and the second "Volpert kleidung." In the context of the 1950s German garment industry, having two labels usually indicated a collaboration between a manufacturer and a specialized retailer. "Erzeugnis" translates to "product," which suggests that Bewag was the industrial workshop responsible for the construction, while Volpert was likely the luxury outfitter or department store that retailed the piece. While specific historical records for these small-scale firms are scarce, they represent the high-quality, mid-sized "Mittelstand" companies that drove the German economic recovery. This jacket evolved from earlier Luftwaffe flight patterns of the 1940s, transitioning into a civilian-friendly "blouson" style that appealed to motorcyclists and working-class youth who wanted a rugged and rebellious look.
The jacket is cut from a black German sheepskin. Sheepskin was the ideal material for this style because it provided immediate comfort and thermal insulation without the excessive weight of cowhide. For a musician or a rider, the suppleness of sheepskin allowed for a full range of arm motion. I have found that mid-century German sheepskin has a particular density that allows it to maintain a sharp, military-adjacent silhouette even though the leather is naturally soft. The collar is a unique hybrid design consisting of a leather border with a wool ribbed interior. This was a functional innovation designed to prevent the leather from chafing the neck while providing a soft, wind-sealing barrier that mimicked the warmth of a scarf.
The design includes two open handwarmer pockets at the waist, providing a streamlined appearance. The cuffs and hem are finished with heavy black wool knit ribbing to trap heat and create the distinctive gathered fit of a flight jacket. The main closure is a brass Zipp zipper. Zipp was a premier West German fastener company during the postwar years. Their brass zippers were noted for their heavy-duty construction and are a hallmark of high-quality German outerwear from this era. I typically point this out as a key indicator of quality because these brass Zipp units were significantly more expensive to produce than the aluminum versions found on standard civilian gear.
The interior is lined with a striking red, black, and grey cotton tartan, which adds a classic mid-century visual contrast to the black leather exterior. The sleeves are lined with black cotton sateen to ensure the jacket slides easily over clothing. It includes a single internal storage pocket for personal items.
Condition
The leather is in great condition, showing only light scuffs and minor edgewear, none of which goes beyond the surface.
The zipper works perfectly. The wool knit at the waist, wrists, and neck is all original, which is quite rare. It does have multiple repairs carried out over the years, but it remains completely wearable.
The liner is in great shape, with only a few light stains and some minor repairs.
Restoration
The exterior leather has been cleaned and conditioned using our tailored leather care process. The inner liner has been carefully hand cleaned and steamed, along with all internal and external pockets. The metal hardware, including snaps, zippers and buttons, has been cleaned and polished to a shine. This piece is fully wearable and requires no further maintenance.
Measurements / Sizing
Recommended Size: S
Tagged Size: N/A
- Chest (Pit to Pit): 21.5” / 54.5cm
- Shoulder (Seam to Seam): 18.5” / 47cm
- Arm Length (Shoulder to Cuff): 23” / 58.5cm
- Arm Length (Pit to Cuff): 16” / 40.5cm
- Length (Nape to Hem): 22” / 56cm
All measurements taken in Inches and Centimetres.
Notes:
Fits a small or a slim medium. (140)
