"This is a used vintage garment and may show signs of wear. Please refer to the individual item description and review the photos carefully."
Offered here is an original 1950s German single rider jacket produced by Bekleidungswerke Sebnitz (BWS). Based in Saxony, BWS is a manufacturer I hold in high regard for their consistency during the difficult transition into the early Cold War era. Although Sebnitz was located in East Germany, this specific piece comes from a window where industrial standards and premium hardware were still shared across the borders. I have found that the presence of Zipp zippers and Gutos clasps on a BWS garment is a definitive marker of their high-end export or premium civilian lines.
The hardware provides the most reliable timeline for the jacket. The Gutos clasps are stamped D.B.P. (Deutsches Bundespatent), a marking that only replaced the wartime D.R.P. system in 1949. In my experience, these markings are frequently misidentified as wartime, but the D.B.P. stamp serves as a hard anchor for the early 1950s. The main zippers are solid brass Zipp units. These represent the immediate evolution of the famous 1940s "lightning bolt" fasteners, updated here with a more robust, modern track that I find far more reliable for daily use than their predecessors.
The quality of this jacket is a result of the unique economy of the post-war German reconstruction. With the rise of installment banks (Teilzahlungsbanken), consumers were able to move away from cheap, disposable clothing and invest in serious equipment. BWS filled this need, eventually becoming a staple supplier for both civilians and the People's Police. Because there was no standardized uniform for police or border units at the time, this rider style became a ubiquitous sight in German culture. For a rider in the 1950s, a BWS jacket was not a fashion statement; it was a significant, long-term investment in survival on the road.
The jacket is cut from a midweight German-tanned calfskin. I have observed that German hides from this era have a particular tight-grained texture that remains soft while being impressively thick and durable. The collar is cut shorter and slightly rounded. This was a deliberate functional choice to close the gap at the neckline when wearing a helmet, preventing wind from entering the jacket at speed.
One detail I always look for on these jackets is the back construction. This piece is built from an almost full single panel. During the post-war "patchwork economy," leather was scarce, and most jackets were pieced together from small offcuts. The use of a large, unblemished panel like this is a direct indicator of a premium product and speaks to the significant sourcing power BWS maintained at the time.
At the hem, the dual Gutos fasteners allow for a clean, tapered fit at the waist. I have found these to be among the most reliable fasteners ever designed; they do not slip under tension. The cuffs feature original snap adjustments to seal out drafts. The interior is lined with a heavy cotton moleskin for insulation and includes a single pocket. The original BWS maker’s label remains intact at the neck.
Condition
The leather is in excellent condition, with a healthy shine and plenty of suppleness. There are some signs of wear and long-term storage, mainly light pressure marks throughout the jacket. A few are visible on the front from the zipper, along with some general impressions elsewhere, which is common for a piece that has been stored for many years. These marks should soften and fade over time and do not affect the integrity of the jacket in any way.
There are a couple of small nicks on the back, and the left cuff shows an old repair. The zippers all function perfectly. The right pocket zipper is missing a single tooth, though it still operates smoothly and the issue is barely noticeable.
The interior liner is in great shape overall, with only minor repairs and some light fading. The sleeve lining has been replaced, likely during the 1960s or 70s, using a yellow, patterned textile.
Restoration
The exterior leather has been professionally cleaned and conditioned using our tailored leather care process. The inner liner has been carefully hand cleaned and steamed, along with all internal and external pockets. The metal hardware, including snaps, zippers and buttons, has been cleaned and polished to a shine. This piece is fully wearable and requires no further maintenance.
Measurements / Sizing
Recommended Size: M
Tagged Size: N/A
- Chest (Pit to Pit): 23” / 58.5cm
- Shoulder (Seam to Seam): 19” / 48.5cm
- Arm Length (Shoulder to Cuff): 23” / 58.5cm
- Arm Length (Pit to Cuff): 16.5” / 42cm
- Length (Nape to Hem): 24” / 61cm
All measurements taken in Inches and Centimetres.
Notes: (69)
